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Episode 2 – Wine is not in crisis

Wine tourism: the true driving force behind the new growth of Italian wine.

If wine were truly in crisis we wouldn’t be witnessing the boom in wine tourism.
Yet the numbers tell a different story.

According to the ilGolosario Wine Tour Observatory, analyzing approximately 1,700 Italian companies, over 60% of wineries have seen an increase in direct sales thanks to wine tourism activities.

This is a huge number.

This means that wine is no longer purchased only on shelves or through distributors and importers.

More and more often it is purchased directly where it grows.

The modern consumer wants to live an experience.

He wants to visit the vineyards.

He wants to know the manufacturer.

He wants to understand the territory.

He wants to eat, taste, photograph and share.

In fact, 82% of visitors choose itineraries that combine:

visit to the cellar
tasting
gastronomic experience
discovery of the territory

Wine thus becomes an integral part of a tourist ecosystem.

Italy has an extraordinary competitive advantage.

No other country can offer simultaneously:

unique landscapes
thousand-year history
an immense artistic heritage
regional cuisine
hundreds of denominations
widespread hospitality

Many Italian wineries are still only exploiting part of this potential.

And this is where one of the key growth opportunities for the next decade lies.

Rather than increasing production, we need to increase the value of experience.

Those who visit a winery often become loyal customers for years… and this is worth much more than a single sale.

Wine Trends and Performance in Italy for the Week of June 1-5 – 2026

The Italian wine sector continues to experience profound transformation. This week’s data confirms that we are not simply facing a cyclical crisis, but rather a structural shift affecting consumption, exports, distribution models, communication, wine tourism, and production management.

Italian wine remains a world power, but it must adapt.

Italy maintains its international leadership thanks to a unique heritage of territories, denominations, biodiversity, and globally recognized quality. The sector continues to represent one of the most important assets of the Made in Italy agri-food industry and is confirmed by the support of institutions, supply chain organizations, and international markets.

The message that emerges forcefully from the contributions of producers, analysts, winemakers, and associations is clear: Italian wine must no longer focus solely on volume growth, but on value creation, economic sustainability, and the ability to understand new consumers.

Exports: Traditional markets slow, emerging markets grow

Exports continue to be the main driver of the sector’s growth, but the first quarter of 2026 still highlights significant tensions.

The data from the UIV Observatory show:

extra-EU exports of approximately 1 billion euros
drop in value of approximately -11%
United States at -20.5%
China still slowing down sharply
Canada on the rise
Japan in strong growth
Mexico, Brazil, Russia and Vietnam among the most dynamic markets

The American market continues to pose the main challenge, primarily due to the effects of tariffs and the decline in domestic consumption. However, Prosecco and numerous premium labels are maintaining positive performances.

At the same time, there is a growing awareness that the future of Italian wine will depend on the ability to diversify markets. Vietnam, Thailand, South Korea, India, Mercosur, Mexico, Colombia, Poland, and Romania are emerging as strategic areas with high growth potential.

The Vietnamese leg of the “Wines Experience” project confirms this very direction: tapping into new markets before they become mature and highly competitive.

Production: avoiding excesses to protect value

One of the most important topics that emerged this week concerns supply management.

Lamberto Frescobaldi sent a very clear message:

Producing more than the market can absorb risks depressing prices along the entire supply chain.

The high stocks present in many wine-growing areas are pushing some denominations to consider reducing yields for the next harvest.

The strategy is no longer to maximize the quantity produced, but to preserve the economic value of the wine and the sustainability of the companies.

This issue becomes particularly sensitive in areas with a strong viticultural vocation such as Piedmont, where agricultural organizations report situations in which the price of grapes risks falling below production costs, jeopardizing the profitability of businesses and the social stability of rural areas.

Consumption: the problem is not the wine, but the consumer

The most important change concerns consumer behavior.

According to Nomisma Wine Monitor:

usual consumption decreases
occasional consumption increases
Consumption related to social moments is growing
the role of wine as an everyday drink is decreasing
the demand for experiences is increasing

Over the last twenty years, the traditional Mediterranean model has progressively weakened.

Young people don’t reject wine, but they experience it differently:

they seek authenticity
they want simple languages
they favor experiences over technical knowledge
they want inclusiveness and accessibility
they are sensitive to the quality-price ratio

The real challenge for the sector is not convincing young people to drink wine, but making it culturally relevant to the new generations.

For this reason, projects dedicated to Gen Z are multiplying, aiming to simplify communication and eliminate the perception of wine as an elitist product or reserved for experts.

Wine tourism: the engine that continues to grow

While traditional sales are slowing, wine tourism continues to record very positive results.

Data from the ilGolosario Wine Tour Observatory highlights that:

Over 60% of wineries increase direct sales thanks to wine tourism
82% of visitors choose experiences integrated between wine, gastronomy and territory
approximately 40% of companies plan new investments in hospitality
Millennials represent the fastest growing segment

The modern visitor is not just looking for a tasting.

Near:

territory
landscape
culture
gastronomy
hospitality
authenticity

The wineries that grow the most are those that manage to transform wine into experience and the territory into a story.

Wine tourism thus confirms its position as one of the main tools for creating value for the Italian wine sector.

Cooperation: a pillar of Italian wine

The week also highlighted the strategic importance of cooperation.

Italian agri-food cooperatives:

generate approximately 38 billion euros in turnover
represent over 20% of Made in Italy agri-food products
they produce over 60% of Italian wine
they export approximately 8 billion euros

The cooperative model continues to represent one of the most effective tools for bringing together production, investment, innovation, and sales force, especially in a time of growing international competition.

Climate change, innovation and identity

The sector also continues to face structural challenges:

climate change
water resources management
sustainability
agronomic innovation
digitalization
generational transition

Future competitiveness will depend on companies’ ability to integrate innovation and territorial identity without losing authenticity.

As Renzo Cotarella emphasized, Italian wine has already undergone its major revolutions. Today, the key is to evolve, understand consumers, and better communicate the true value of its products.

Wine Trends in Italy – Week of May 25-29 – 2026

This is not an irreversible structural crisis, but a profound transformation of the global market, of consumption, and of the ways in which wine is produced, distributed, and described.
Italian wine is going through one of the most delicate phases of recent years.

The week of May 25-29, 2026, clearly confirms that the sector is entering a new historical phase: more selective, more competitive, and much less predictable than in the past.

Exports: signs of improvement, but the situation remains fragile

The main focus continues to be exports.
Data for the first quarter of 2026 still show a negative situation for Italian wine in non-EU markets, although March showed a slight improvement compared to the first two months of the year.

According to the Italian Wine Union Observatory, non-EU exports of Italian wine closed the quarter at nearly €1 billion, down 11% in value compared to 2025, but improving on the 16% decline recorded in the initial two months.

The main problem remains the American market.
The United States, the world’s leading market for Italian wine, continues to slow down sharply:

Italian wine exports to the US: -20.5% in the first quarter of 2026
Italian sparkling wines in the US: -27% in value
total volumes in the US: -7.2%
Consumer prices increased by 4.3% despite discounts applied by Italian wineries to offset duties

The combined effect of:

American tariffs,
slowdown in consumption,
geopolitical tensions,
excess stock,
increasing logistics costs

is creating strong pressure on the entire supply chain.

However, some interesting signals also emerge.
Italian exports are not currently supported by historic markets, but by emerging and high-potential markets:

China
Brazil
Mexico
Russia

in fact, they show significant increases in demand.

At the same time, Prosecco continues to demonstrate greater resilience than other categories, especially in the premium segment and in the international HoReCa sector.

Italy remains the world leader in wine

Despite the market slowdown, Italy confirms its global manufacturing leadership.

According to the Mediobanca Research Area report:

Italian production 2025: 44.4 million hectoliters
global share: 19.7%
world’s leading exporter by volume
second largest exporter in the world by value after France

The sector continues to represent a strategic asset for Made in Italy, with a trade balance that increased from €2.7 billion in 2005 to €7.2 billion in 2025.

But behind these numbers, some very evident critical issues also emerge.

Turnover, margins and consumption are decreasing

2025 ended with:

turnover of top Italian players: -2.8%
EBITDA: -4.2%
net profit: -7.5%
exports: -3.4%
domestic market: -2.2%

Those who suffer the most are:

small and medium-sized companies,
the most capital intensive structures,
the middle range of the market.

Premium wine is holding up better, while the intermediate segment continues to lose strength.

Even traditional channels are showing difficulties:

Horeca slowing down,
wine shops in decline,
weak online,
wholesalers in contraction.

This confirms a trend that is now evident: the wine market is becoming more selective and less oriented towards large volumes.

Consumption is changing: less quantity, more experience

One of the most important changes concerns consumer behavior.

In recent years:

global wine consumption is decreasing,
attention to well-being is growing,
no-low alcohol increases,
the concept of “drink less but better” is strengthened.

This is also clearly seen in the aperitif phenomenon.

World Aperitivo Day 2026 confirms:

growth of premium aperitifs,
strong development of alcohol-free products,
increase in mixology,
search for lighter and more transversal convivial experiences.

Generation Z is approaching beverages in a completely different way than previous generations:

less traditional ritual,
more sociability,
more experience,
less historical fidelity to wine.

This forces the Italian wine sector to rethink its language, communication, and commercial approach.

Wine tourism: one of the true strategic levers of the future

In this scenario, one central theme emerges forcefully: wine tourism.

Today, Italian wine tourism is already worth over 3 billion euros and, according to many industry analyses, could exceed 5 billion in the coming years if the system is better structured.

The most interesting fact is that:

for many wineries, wine tourism already accounts for more than 20% of their turnover,
the most organised companies record significant increases in margins,
direct sales are growing,
increases customer loyalty.

The real Italian crux, however, remains the ability to create a system.

Many territories:

they communicate little together,
they do not integrate enough hospitality, wine and tourism,
they still have organizational shortcomings,
they are not fully structured on professional reception.

Yet Italy’s potential remains probably the strongest in the world:

unique wine biodiversity,
iconic territories,
gastronomic culture,
authenticity,
globally recognized landscapes.

Today, wine can no longer be just a bottle to sell.
It’s becoming more and more:

experience,
relation,
territory,
cultural identity.

And it is precisely here that many wineries will be able to build their economic future.

Luxury continues to spend

Also interesting is the signal coming from the Costa Smeralda, where wine continues to be seen as an element of status, luxury, and an exclusive experience.

Events like the Porto Cervo Wine & Food Festival show how the high-end segment remains very dynamic, especially in high-spending international tourism.

This confirms an increasingly evident dynamic:

the average market is suffering,
the premium one lasts better,
Super premium continues to grow in some contexts.

Final conclusions

Italian wine is not losing value.
The market is changing.

The model based primarily on volumes, traditional distribution and consolidated consumption today shows clear limitations.

The new phase of the sector requires:

greater selection,
production control,
strengthening of perceived value,
new communication languages,
more territorial identity,
greater integration between wine, tourism and hospitality.

The strongest companies in the coming years will likely be those capable of:

build a direct relationship with the consumer,
develop experiences,
invest in the brand,
to oversee wine tourism,
differentiate yourself on real quality,
work in a network with the local area.

Italy still has a huge competitive advantage: authenticity, history, biodiversity, and productive capacity.
But today it is no longer enough to produce excellent wine.

It needs to be told better.
We need to create experience.
We need to build value around the territory.
And it is precisely there that much of the future of Italian wine will be played out in the coming years.

Wine Trends in Italy – Week of May 18-22 – 2026

The Italian wine sector continues to experience a complex phase, probably one of the most delicate in recent years.
The numbers confirm a market that is not in an irreversible structural crisis, but is undergoing a profound transformation made up of new consumption patterns, reduced volumes, pressure on margins, and changes in purchasing habits.
At the same time, new growth opportunities, new commercial geographies, and new consumption models are emerging that are reshaping the future of Italian and global wine.

According to the Mediobanca 2025 Report on leading Italian wineries, the slowdown in the sector is now evident even among large groups. Aggregate sales of the companies analyzed fell 2.8% compared to 2024, with exports weaker than the domestic market. Margins are particularly deteriorating: EBITDA -4.2%, net profit -7.5%, a sign of a cost structure that is increasingly difficult to sustain in a context of declining consumption and strong competitive pressure. The HoReCa sector, wine shops, wine bars, online sales, and the mid-market are particularly affected. Sparkling wines are holding up better, while organic wines are slowing, and no-low-alcohol wines remain marginal.

The international situation confirms the difficulties. OIV data show a very difficult global outlook for 2025: global wine trade will lose approximately €34 billion, global consumption will fall to its lowest levels since 1957, and international trade volumes will fall below 95 million hectoliters. The United States, France, and China are leading the global slowdown in consumption, while Europe continues to reduce vineyard areas and production to adapt to a less expansive market than in the past.

The main problem for Italian wine remains exports to the United States. In the twelve months following the introduction of US tariffs, the sector lost approximately €340 million, with volumes at their lowest levels in the last ten years. The first two months of 2026 still saw Italian exports decline by 13.3%, although February showed less negative signs than January. The US remains the primary market, but the pressure of tariffs, a weak dollar, and reduced consumption continues to weigh heavily on Italian companies.

Within this challenging scenario, however, some new strategic directions are beginning to emerge. Russia, China, and especially Brazil are showing significant signs of recovery. The emerging markets analyzed by Nomisma are projected to exceed €400 million in Italian wine imports in 2025, with growth of 4.3%. Countries such as Poland, Romania, Mexico, India, and the Czech Republic are becoming increasingly attractive areas for commercial diversification of Italian wine, especially for sparkling wines and bottled wines.

On the consumption front, the shift now appears structural. The dominant paradigm is becoming “less quantity, more quality.” Consumers aren’t stopping drinking wine, but they’re changing their approach: they’re drinking less often, choosing better, seeking experiences, authenticity, and greater consistency between price and perceived value. Consumption by the glass is growing, now chosen by 57% of global consumers according to Coravin, driven primarily by young people seeking variety, moderation, and discovery. This phenomenon is profoundly changing the work of restaurants, wine bars, and wine shops.

Pricing is also becoming a key issue in the restaurant industry. Distributors and HORECA operators are sounding the alarm over excessive wine list price increases. Today’s consumers compare prices, immediately perceive markups as overly aggressive, and tend to reduce out-of-home consumption when the quality-price ratio appears unbalanced. More and more restaurateurs are therefore considering more sustainable models, with lower markups and increased bottle rotation.

Meanwhile, production and marketing preferences are also changing. Liv-Ex data confirms impressive growth in the global fine wine market for white and sparkling wines: 650% for whites and 1,100% for sparkling wines since 2010, while reds remain essentially stagnant. This is an important signal because it reflects a real transformation in consumer tastes and international investor decisions.

Organic retail continues to grow in Italian distribution, with organic retail sales expected to reach €4.4 billion in 2025 (9.2%). However, organic wine has yet to fully capture this positive trend: organic wines and sparkling wines are stable in value (-0.1%) and declining in volume. This demonstrates that today’s consumers seek sustainability, but also demand accessibility, simplicity, and a clear perceived value.

At the same time, the importance of technological innovation is growing. Eatable Adventures’ Wine Tech Challenge highlights how the sector is increasingly investing in precision agriculture, artificial intelligence, water sustainability, distribution monitoring, dealcoholization, and commercial automation. Innovation is no longer an afterthought but a strategic competitive lever for reducing costs, improving sustainability, and adapting to new market scenarios.

Overall, the Italian wine industry is undergoing a momentous transformation. Global consumption is slowing, margins are compressing, and traditional markets are becoming more unstable. But at the same time, new opportunities are emerging related to alternative markets, experiential consumption, premiumization, technological innovation, sparkling wines, white wines, and the evolution of wine tourism.

The future of the sector does not seem to be oriented toward quantitative growth, but rather toward a more selective, managerial, and value-driven model. Those who can quickly adapt to changing consumer behavior, build direct relationships with the market, and offer authentic and sustainable experiences will have significant growth opportunities in the coming years.

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