Wine press review for Monday January 5 -2026

Wine news, Italian wineries and wines.

Italian wineries

Tenuta San Leonardo: organic certification suspended (for now). The Trentino winery explains its decision: significant production declines (-30% annually over the last three harvests) and the “industrial” cost of organic farming, deemed no longer sustainable under current conditions. Key issues: economic as well as agronomic sustainability.

Odoardi: Release of seizure and return to full operations (with clarifications). The Calabrian company is back in the hands of its owner. In parallel, the Scavigno Agricultural Consortium has published clarifications: the release cited by the press concerns an area/land associated with consortium restrictions, urging people not to confuse “release of seizure” with “resumption of operations” in the full sense.

Alex Maccan: From Furniture to Viticulture in Friuli (Le Monde and La Ponca) A story of a life-changing entrepreneurial career: from the furniture industry to the vineyards, a journey that unites vision, territory, and winemaking.

Farewell to Arnaldo Caprai (192?–2026): the man who transformed Sagrantino into a global brand. One of the protagonists of the promotion of Sagrantino di Montefalco: entrepreneurship, territorial vision, and building an international reputation, has passed away at the age of 92.

Italian wine and Italian oenology

Italian wine inventories are growing: “Cantina Italia” reports high volumes. As of November 30, 2025: 53.4 million hectoliters (8.6% vs. November 30, 2024), 9.5 million hl of new wine in fermentation, and 9.7 million hl of must. This trend is interpreted in the context of different harvests (2023 poor, 2024 more generous, 2025 even more abundant) and slower sales/consumption (health concerns, tariffs, pressure on incomes).

Dealcoholized wines: Protopapa (Lega) calls for “regulatory clarity” to protect identities and denominations. The interministerial decree between the Ministry of Economy and Finance (MEF) and the Ministry of Health (MASAF) ushers in a more structured phase for the low/no alcohol segment. The political and operational message is: innovation is welcome, but with clear rules to avoid ambiguity regarding the positioning of Piedmontese and Italian wines.

Zibibbo (Moscato d’Alessandria): a Mediterranean grape variety, between history and identity. Cultural and agronomic insight: Zibibbo as a “bridge” between peoples, trade routes, agricultural techniques and traditions (Pantelleria as a symbol, but not only).

Grapur – “Italian Red Wine”: Sustainability told through packaging. Project 2025 by Mack & Schühle Italia (a joint venture between Mack & Schühle AG and Latentia). A broad supply chain (cooperatives and an extensive vineyard network) and a narrative/industrial approach: sustainability built from the ultra-lightweight bottle, cork, and materials (with partners such as Verallia and Nomacorc Ocean).

Tasting Notes: Primitivo di Manduria Dionysos 2010 (De Quarto) A wine “out of time” (in a good way): long maceration, no oak, released only at the ripeness deemed ideal by the producer. Very low sulfur content; broad and mature aromatic profile.

The Fiano that defies time: Fiano di Avellino Riserva 2015 (Di Meo) Focus on evolutionary capacity and taste tension: eight years in steel, refined in the bottle, with freshness still alive.

Falanghina identity: the Tenuta Le Albe project (Arturo Erbaggio) Portrait of a winemaker/agronomist who “sets up on his own” and builds an essential and territorial Falanghina (plot in Irpinia, project launch 2012).

International

France: Sweetening of still AOC wines, doctrine changes. From November 27, 2025: regulated opening to sensory profile correction in still AOC wines, with technical limitations (9 g/l limit, traceability, operational constraints). Impact for Italy: potential competitive pressure on the medium segments and, at the same time, an opportunity to reposition “Made in Italy” on transparency and the strength of the appellations.

The Academy (Vinexposium): training and data to understand global markets. Confirmation of its role as an international hub in 2025: sessions on the geopolitics of wine, consumption trends, strategies, and a focus on the blending theme as a possible industrial direction.

“Wine Flight” wine tourism experiences in the castle. Visit/tasting story: wine tourism as an experiential product (replicable format), with attention to scenography, hospitality and tasting itinerary.

Wine events

Palio del Groppello 2025: Saottini wins (2024 harvest). A historic first: debut and victory, and the first win for the Lonato del Garda area. A tradition since 1970, with the awards ceremony in Salò.

Triveneto Winemaking Hub: inauguration on January 31, 2026 (San Vito al Tagliamento). A new consortium governance hub promoted by Triveneta Certificazioni, with a conference entitled “Building Connections, Building the Future.” The goal: quality, traceability, and market competitiveness, with a networking approach between regions and control systems.

Tuglie (LE): “Nativity Scenes in the Village” and “Christmas in the Cellar” until January 6th. A calendar will be distributed among wineries and historic locations. A special presentation of the book “Generazione alternativa. 1991-1995” will be held at the Peparussu Winery (wine-related cultural event).

Agro-economic context and assets (supply chain focus)

Italian farmers’ income: growth above the EU average. Statements by the Minister of Agriculture: Masaf strategies on supply chains, generational turnover, and valorization (including through tourism and cultural recognition).

Agricultural land: “silent” value selection (data and levers). Average value in Italy: €22,400/ha (1%) with significant regional differences (the Northeast is at its highest). Drivers cited: logistics, water availability, structured supply chains, brand strength, and earnings potential. Tax note: revaluation of land (2025 Budget Law) with a substitute tax of 18% by November 30, 2025, through a certified appraisal.

Operations and market

Beverage Risk 2026: M&A Expectations in Italy. 2025 is described as a year of slower transactions compared to 2024 (more caution, longer evaluation and closing times), but with overall values still solid. Reading: a less “noisy” pipeline, but deals are possible for well-positioned assets with defensible numbers.

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