Wine press review for Monday February 23 -2026

Wineries, Italian wine producers, and wine news.

Italian Wineries (histories, territories, projects)

Cantine Di Marzo (Tufo): the origins of Greco di Tufo Historical-territorial story: from the tuff mines to the vocation of Greco in Irpinia, with key passages on DOC (1970), DOCG (1993) and local production identity.

Masseria Campito (Gricignano d’Aversa): focus on Asprinio A coherent and courageous “single-varietal” project: 6 hectares, a farmhouse transformed into a winery (since 2013) and the promotion of Asprinio as a territorial signature.

Ca’ da Roman (Romano d’Ezzelino): the future is PIWI. A strategic bet on resistant grape varieties (PIWI) as a frontier of sustainable viticulture, with the ambition of becoming a European hub dedicated exclusively to these varieties.

Bio Cantina Sociale Orsogna: Biodiversity as a competitive lever Scientific project “Biodiversity in and for the vineyard” with Universities (Eastern Piedmont and Milan): demonstrating that quality, sustainability, and biodiversity can be synergistic (1,500 hectares, 300 members, oases, and fishponds).

Al Bano: the Apulian estate between hospitality, farm and winery Portrait of a property where the agricultural part and wine production (e.g. “Don Carmelo”) are integrated with hospitality/experience elements (spa, small church, woods, horses).

2) Italian wine and Italian oenology (market, styles, techniques, data)

Valoritalia: 2025: A mixed bag for certificates

  • Total certified bottlings: -2.1% vs 2024
  • DOC/DOCG 1% (quality/export locomotive)
  • IGT -12% , reds -13% , exports -3% Reading: sector stabilization, with polarization towards “strong” denominations.

Gen Z USA: Sweet wine as a bridge to dry wines. Insight by Deborah Parker Wong: To attract twenty-somethings, sweet/fruit-forward wines (Amarone, Recioto, Moscato, Vin Santo, but also Prosecco and Lambrusco) can open the door. The goal: a gradual conversion to drier styles.

Alto Adige: Micro-regions and “light” reds under €20 (Schiava & Co.) Focus on sub-zones and company/cooperative specializations; Schiava takes center stage between Santa Maddalena and Lake Caldaro, with more agile and refined styles (and Lagrein as another regional highlight).

“Organic is no longer enough”: the shift toward sustainable viticulture. From “labeled” organic to a more integrated model: protection, soil, machinery, costs, and quality stability in a more unstable climate. Theme: sustainability as a balance between quality, profitability, and impact.

In Brianza, a winemaker “leaves the wine” and brings the method to the fruit. Marco Colzani applies winemaking logic (maturation, acidity, oxidation, tannins) to the production of juices and nectars: an interesting sign of technical contamination and advanced craftsmanship.

Funding: €5.5 million for photovoltaic vineyard renovation/conversion. Regional approval for 2026/2027 with streamlined procedures; in parallel, a 2026 call for proposals for photovoltaic systems on agricultural holdings (dual lever: competitiveness of vineyards and energy transition).

3) International (USA, duties, exports, scenarios)

A year of US tariffs: higher costs, struggling exports, and “hostility.” Summary (Eric Asimov, NYT): The tariffs, designed to “protect” American industry, have primarily created uncertainty and friction; the case of Canada (up to 35%) and reductions in purchases are cited.

New York: The Italian wine merchant who stopped tariffs. Victor Schwartz (VOS Selections)’s story: impact on margins and inventories (-25%), decision to sue, and his role as plaintiff in an appeal supported by the Liberty Justice Center. A case that symbolizes how trade policy affects artisanal imports.

Alta Langa DOCG flies to New York (March 10, 2026) The Consortium’s first official event in the USA, at Eataly Downtown: a B2B meeting with 27 producers, tasting tables, and seminars on the history/territory/distinctiveness of the Piedmontese Classic Method.

4) Wine events (fairs, tastings, awards, calendar)

Slow Wine Fair (Bologna, until February 24): good, clean, and “fair” wine. The Slow Wine Fair Sana Food axis is growing: wine presented as an economic, cultural, and social phenomenon. The 2026 focus is on “fair wine”: decent work, rural communities, and equity.

“Wine is only good if it’s right”: an appeal and an ethical agenda. A strong message also linked to the issue of gangmastering and working conditions in the vineyard; space for virtuous examples and an approach that places ethics and sustainability at the centre of value.

Gender issues in wine: “Wine, a feminine noun” From the Slow Wine Fair: stories and numbers on inequalities and economic/wage conditions, with the aim of making women’s contributions to the supply chain visible.

The events of February 23rd at the Slow Wine Fair “Carta Vini Terroir e Spirito Slow” Award (spin-off Milano Wine Week Awards) with 14 categories: a bridge between catering/retail and the culture of fine drinking.

Rome: Cantine del Notaio among the best wines in Italy (Luca Maroni) At the 25th edition of “The Best Italian Wines”: Aglianico DOC La Firma 2020 awarded as the second best red wine out of approximately 8,500 wines evaluated.

Cagliari (February 24): signature tasting Montalcino vs Valpolicella FIS Sardinia evening with Angelini Wines & Estates: comparison Val di Suga (Brunello) and Bertani (Valpolicella/Amarone), with a “surprise” closing.

Caserta (February 26): “I Nuo(VINI)ssimi” – wine & pizza Dinner event at Pizzeria 485°: 5 new Campania wines presented with producers, paired with a fried pizza tour.

Genoa (March 8–9): “I Vini del Cuore 2026” at the Palazzo della Borsa Social Guide, tastings and wine stories in the historic location, access via card that can be purchased online.

Porto Cervo Wine & Food Festival (7–10 May 2026) Boutique event on the Costa Smeralda: first two days B2B, weekend open to the public; an event attracting a high density of buyers, operators, and the press.

Sponsor of the day: WINEIDEA.IT Talk to you tomorrow.