Wine press review for Wednesday December 3 – 2025

News on Italian wine and oenology.

ITALIAN WINERIES

Conte Collalto Winery – Christmas as a Rite of Identity. The historic Conegliano-Valdobbiadene winery offers Manzoni Bianco and Vinciguerra for the holidays, wines that tell a tale of millennia-old roots and conviviality. The hills cultivated for over a thousand years by the Collalto family are once again the focus.

Cantine Ermes – Investments in Oltrepò and new “Oltrepo” line: Eight new tanks (40% capacity), the first line of seven wines dedicated to the region, and a confirmed growth path. President Rosario Di Maria speaks of strong synergies with producers and institutions following the acquisition of the Canneto Pavese winery.

Cantina Belpoggio – Twenty Years Celebrated in Montalcino At Benvenuto Brunello, the winery recounted two decades of history with “Decanting2Decades.” An immersive celebration between Castelnovo dell’Abate and the Abbey of Sant’Antimo, the ideal cradle of Sangiovese.

ERT1050 – The Classic Mountain Method according to Oniwines. A sustainable vertical viticulture project for Trentodoc Classic Method has been launched in Brentonico (Trentino). The winery is a “fortress” nestled in Monte Baldo.

Palazzo Lodron – Day 2 of the Advent Calendar Between Trento and Lake Garda, an elegant, handcrafted production takes shape, with award-winning wines and an underground cellar that showcases a four-century-old heritage.

La Sabbiona – Special Go Wine Award for its Famoso The Faenza winery wins the “Good… I didn’t know it!” award for its “VIP” Ravenna IGP Famoso, the fruit of a journey that began 18 years ago to relaunch this ancient grape variety.

ITALIAN WINE AND ITALIAN OENOLOGY

40 years since the methanol scandal. The scandal that changed Italian wine forever. Since late 1985, over 2.5 tons of methanol were discovered illegally used by multiple wineries: 23 deaths, 150 poisonings, and a turning point for regulations and the perception of quality.

Italian wine: between new frontiers and the sparkling wine boom. The Nomisma study describes a sector with 30,000 processing companies, a €16 billion turnover, and a key role in sparkling wines. Growing importance for exports and perceived quality.

Italy sells more wine to China. According to the Federvini Observatory, despite tariffs and global uncertainty, Italy is holding up better than its competitors. Its ability to adapt to new markets is growing, while France and Chile are experiencing more severe contractions.

Gangmastering in Agriculture – 2,500 “Shadowed” Workers in Friuli Venezia Giulia. The phenomenon of “landless self-employed workers” of Pakistani origin leads to unfair competition and exploitation. The regional observatory reports a 68% increase in two years.

INTERNATIONAL

Libby Brodie – The teetotaler consultant rewriting the rules of wine. An influential figure in the drinks industry, a technical taster and “Wine Translator,” she aims to democratize wine by eliminating snobbery. Seemingly paradoxical: she’s teetotal.

France looks to Italy for promotion Jérôme Bauer (Cnaoc) points to the Italian model as a reference: Italy invests 100 million/year in promotion, France only 40. A unitary “Wine of France” project has been called for.

The wine crisis in France: tariffs, climate, 70-year low harvests, war in Ukraine, and plummeting sales in China. Thousands of winemakers take to the streets demanding a bailout.

The renaissance of natural wines in Turkey. Thanks to the work of Sabiha Apaydin, Turkey (the world’s fifth-largest grape producer) is reshaping its identity with native grape varieties and natural wines. The “Kök, Köken, Toprak” symposium is becoming an international reference.

WINE EVENTS

Open Cellars at Christmas 2025 – Wine tourism celebrates December. A national event of the Wine Tourism Movement: tastings, illuminated villages, and a green approach thanks to the collaboration with Earth Day Italy.

Go Wine – Presentation of “Cantine d’Italia 2026” 911 wineries selected, 270 Impronte d’Eccellenza (Imprints of Excellence), 5,180 wines nominated. Focus on hospitality, wine culture, company museums, and storytelling.

Cantine d’Italia recognizes Brescia’s wine tourism. Franciacorta and Garda confirm their position as cutting-edge hubs. Bellavista is among the 25 wineries awarded the Tre Impronte (Three Fingerprints) award.

Michelin – The “Wine Selection” and “Grappoli” system are launched. “Michelin Grapes” are now available, with scores ranging from 1 to 3 based on agronomic quality, technique, identity, balance, and consistency. France leads the way (Burgundy and Bordeaux), while Italy is expected to join in 2026.

Civitas Vini – Cori celebrates history and cellars A new widespread event is born on December 7th and 8th: museums, cellars and art dialogue in an experiential journey dedicated to the Cori DOC.

The Wine & Spirits Vintage Auction – December 11 in Milan: Wannenes is auctioning 585 lots from three prestigious collections, including Giorgio Manenti’s historic cellar. A tasting of rare labels is also scheduled.

Sicily’s Wine Region – The 2026 Guide Presented. Il Giornale di Sicilia and Slow Wine present a mosaic of excellence, from large wineries to small family-run businesses.

Italian City of Wine 2026–27: Vulture Conegliano-Valdobbiadene doubles its title. For the first time, two regions share the title, uniting Basilicata and Veneto in a two-year program of wine tourism and cultural initiatives.

2025 Rome Wine Award – Calabria on the podium The 2024 Terre di Gerace Bianco (Barone Macrì) takes second place among white wines made from native vines in the national selection.

EXTRA / SOCIETY

Nduja, wine, and lobbying at the Chamber of Deputies – The “Calabrese ceremony” A political tasting featuring Pecorino Reggino and Greco Nero cheeses, organized by MP Domenico Furgiuele. Guests included parliamentarians, managers, and the inevitable presence of the President of the Republic.

Thanks for listening: today’s press review is brought to you by WINEIDEA.IT . Tomorrow, a new look at the wine landscape, always keeping our compass focused on the essential: reading the signs before they become evident.

News on Italian wine and oenology.

ITALIAN WINERIES

Cantina La-Vis – “Portraits”: art, sustainability, and social responsibility in a single project. A new line of six wines illustrates the harmony between humanity and nature through the illustrations of artist Margherita Paoletti. The launch coincides with the International Day for the Elimination of Violence against Women, with a charity event in support of Telefono Rosa.

Le Colture – Cartizze: elegance for the holidays Le Colture’s Valdobbiadene DOCG Spumante Superiore di Cartizze confirms its status as a symbol of finesse: an extremely fine perlage, aromas of ripe fruit, and a perfectly recognizable story of the territory.

Torrevilla – AIS Lombardia Winemaker of the Year: Gabriele Picchi For the first time, AIS Lombardia has established the “Winemaker of the Year” award, awarding it to Gabriele Picchi for his work in selection, research, and quality improvement in Oltrepò Pavese.

Colterenzio Winery – New President: Franz Pardatscher. After 18 years as president of Niedermayr, Pardatscher, an oenologist and winemaker from Appiano, takes over the helm. This marks the beginning of a phase of consolidation and responsible renewal for the winery.

Cantina De Vigili – Mountain bubbles at 850 meters A vineyard located between 800 and 850 meters above sea level in the Spormaggiore area promises a sparkling wine with a distinctive “altitude” character, with the Brenta massif acting as a natural sentinel.

Enrico Serafino – Special Visit to the Canale Winery The winery welcomes guests of the “Il Girasole” day center: a simple and authentic experience that brings people closer to the culture of wine through firsthand experience and genuine curiosity.

Surprising Calabria – 56 wineries on display From November 29th to December 2nd, the press tour showcases a rapidly evolving region: Cosenza is the first stop on a journey involving producers, journalists, and international buyers.

Brescia’s Wineries Between Franciacorta and Garda – Top-Rated Wine Tourism. In Go Wine’s “Cantine d’Italia 2026” guide, Brescia takes center stage thanks to its quality hospitality and landscape. Bellavista is among the 25 wineries with “Tre Impronte” (Three Imprints).

La Sabbiona – Special Award for the Famous “VIP” Ravenna PGI The recovery of a historic aromatic grape variety becomes a virtuous case: the “Buono… non lo noto!” award celebrates a journey that began 18 years ago and is now recognized nationally.

MASI – New Wine Bar & Restaurant at Verona Airport The Masi Wine Bar & Restaurant opens in the renovated Catullo Airport, bringing the Veneto food and wine experience to the area’s main tourist hub.

ITALIAN WINE AND ITALIAN OENOLOGY

The Lost Classicism of Brunello: The Debate Continues. Winemaker Filippo Paoletti weighs in on the editorial criticizing the stylistic evolution of some Brunellos from Southern Montalcino. One firm point: going backwards would mean invasive techniques and results that are inconsistent with today’s terroir.

Circular Economy in the Winery – The Caviro Model Recovery, regeneration of by-products, and supply chain integration: Caviro presents an industrial model that transforms sustainability into an economic lever, not a mere slogan.

UIV relaunches “Enotria” – The wine magazine is back. The historic periodical founded in 1921 is relaunching after fourteen years: two annual issues, in print and digital, to give voice to wine culture and the memory of the sector.

The “Clinto” wine is on the way to European rehabilitation. The EU Agriculture Commission is open to the possibility of marketing “Clintòn,” a wine banned for nearly a century. Veneto celebrates, with historic festivals and studies on its oenological potential.

Vinci – Wine as a Territorial Network The Municipality of Vinci presents its agricultural and cultural development projects: a model that links landscape, events, and local products into a single narrative of identity.

Roma Vino 2025 – All the Award Winners Over 230 wines from Lazio compete, with a professional jury rewarding quality, innovation, and a strong connection to the region in the evocative setting of the Temple of Hadrian.

INTERNATIONAL

Romania – A Silent Giant of European Wine With 187,000 hectares and 3.6 million hectoliters (OIV data), Romania remains the world’s eighth-largest vineyard producer. Historical and cultural ties with Italy make this market increasingly attractive.

Italian exports under pressure – Extraordinary measures are needed. UIV raises the alarm: tariffs, an unfavorable exchange rate, and declining purchasing power risk curbing exports. The government is allocating €100 million annually (2026–2028) to promote exports abroad.

WINE EVENTS

Sparkle 2026 – A Roman success with 1,500 visitors. 92 labels awarded the “5 Spheres,” nearly 1,000 wines in the guide, and a growing audience: Italian sparkling wines continue to attract attention and curiosity.

Venicepromex – “Land of Wine Stars” with Chef Chiara Pavan. The initiative highlights wine as the defining language of the Veneto region. Chef Pavan shares her vision of sustainable cuisine and the connections between produce and landscape.

Advent Calendar – Day 1: Praeclarus Metodo Classico Since 1979, a symbol of Alto Adige sparkling wine: hand-picked grapes, rigorous classic method, and three versions available today that tell the story of a terroir that thrives on precision and freshness.

COLUMN – PEOPLE AND IDEAS

Piero Antinori – “I’m still searching for the perfect wine.” At 87, the Marchese recounts his never-ending quest: an ideal wine, capable of embodying an idea rather than a style. Among memories, Tignanello, and an unquenchable thought.

Thanks for listening. Today’s press review is brought to you by WINEIDEA.IT . Let’s follow the thread of these stories: each one reveals how the sector continues to evolve, even when no one notices.

News on Italian wine and oenology.

Italian wineries

• Borgo del Tiglio, a landmark winery hit by landslide and flood (Friuli). In Brazzano, on Mount Quarin, a landslide and flood devastated the historic Borgo del Tiglio winery: 17th-century buildings damaged, historic vineyards compromised, an archive of 10,000 bottles destroyed, and 60,000 bottles from the 2025 vintage trapped underground. The economic damage amounts to several million euros, and recovery times are long, due to the red zone and safety restrictions.
• Oniwines (Oniverse) focuses on Trentodoc “mountain bubbles.” Federico Veronesi (Oniwines, Oniverse group – Calzedonia, Falconeri, Signorvino) describes a counter-current growth strategy in a shrinking market: six wineries in Lazio, Sardinia, Marche, Piedmont, and Veneto, and now the “Ert1050” project in Trentodoc, focusing on territorial identity and wine tourism.
• “Cathedral” Trentodoc Altemasi: Cavit invests €26 million in Ravina. In response to the consumer crisis and competitive pressure, Cavit is investing €26 million in a new winery dedicated to Trentodoc Altemasi . This is a strong signal of the strategic role of mountain sparkling wines in the group’s future growth.
• Rome Wine Award 2025: Lazio takes center stage with Famiglia Cotarella and Cantina Stefanoni. In the Hall of the Temple of Vibia Sabina and Adriano in Rome, the Rome Wine Award 2025 ceremony showcases Lazio’s finest wines. Recognition goes to the Viterbo-based wineries Famiglia Cotarella and Cantina Stefanoni , with the aim of supporting quality, exports, and new entrepreneurship (both young and female).
• The Langhe is firmly established among the world’s elite of “fine wines.” In the 2025 international rankings of top wines and Europe’s best producers, the Langhe has firmly established itself among the world’s elite: among the names cited, Angelo Gaja (Barbaresco) and Giacomo Conterno appear alongside giants such as Egon Müller, Vega Sicilia, Krug, and Château Latour. Italy’s high-end winemaking is consolidating its global status.
• Trevéz, three young people revitalizing old vineyards in Bologna. The Trevéz project was born from the meeting of three young winemakers and agronomists trained in Italy, Germany, New Zealand, Australia, and California. Their strategic choice: to lease very old, often abandoned, vineyards and enhance them with careful management. An example of a new urban entrepreneurship that reinterprets the land with technical expertise.

Italian wine and Italian oenology

• Sondrio: €45 million for heroic agriculture and tourism. The Lombardy Region has approved the 2025 Territorial Development Framework Agreement for the province of Sondrio: over €45 million earmarked for projects that combine heroic agriculture, public water management, and tourism development in an entirely mountainous area. Key resources also for terraced vineyards.
• “Lives of Langa and Roero”: Petrini and Tibaldi recount a peasant civilization. The book “Lives of Langa and Roero – Social Transformations of a Peasant Civilization” by Carlo Petrini and Paolo Tibaldi is being presented at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo. A journey that unites history, culture, wine, and collective identity, including Savoy courts, farms, the dignity of labor, climate change, sustainable tourism, and the future of local communities.
• Budget and wine: between micro-regulations and the Wine Museum proposal. The package of amendments to the budget includes “micro-regulations” that also affect the sector: from strengthening the structure against blue crabs to the Wine Museum , including protection of the buffalo milk supply chain. These are signs of attention, but also regulatory fragmentation.
• Primitivo “di Manduria” from a nonexistent winery: the K-Tipp case. An investigation by the Swiss monthly K-Tipp exposes the Primitivo di Manduria 1488 DOP “Fratelli Leporetti,” sold in Landi supermarkets: the producer in Puglia doesn’t exist. The label, designed to evoke authenticity and territory, is actually a fictitious one. The central theme: protecting denominations, transparency for consumers, and protecting the image of Italian wine abroad.
• The Return of Autumn Wine: New Wine, Mulled Wine, and Rural Memories. Between San Martino and Christmas, the season of new wine , mulled wine , and cellar traditions returns: innkeepers and families once roamed Cellatica, Botticino, Garda, and Franciacorta to select the wine to keep at home year-round. A tale that intertwines rural memory, local tradition, and modern consumption.
• Restaurants overwhelmed by storms: hospitality and resilience. From Tuscan restaurants like Osteria delle Terme in Massacciuccoli to chef Antonia Klugmann’s appeal in Friuli Venezia Giulia, the restaurant industry reports extensive damage but also impressive gestures of solidarity. Customers and communities shovel mud alongside restaurateurs: wine is once again a symbol of sociality, even in climate emergencies.
• 2025 Harvest: Piedmontese Wine Cooperation Between Quality and Low Yields. The cooperative wineries belonging to Confcooperative Piemonte describe a high-quality 2025 vintage, but with low yields and a complex market. The cooperative model emerges as a tool for resilience: sharing expertise, supporting members, and the ability to transform challenges into opportunities for growth.
• Varvaglione (UIV): More resources for promotion, exports must be protected. Marzia Varvaglione, vice president of the Italian Wine Union , welcomes the inclusion of €100 million per year for the three-year period 2026–2028 for promotion and internationalization activities. With tariffs, the falling dollar, and declining purchasing power, a significant portion of these resources is considered vital to protecting Italian wine exports.
• Marsala nominated for UNESCO World Heritage status along with the wines of the “Sun Belt.” Marsala , a historic Sicilian wine, is nominated for UNESCO World Heritage status along with Jerez, Madeira, Porto, and Samos. The goal is to protect the landscapes, production practices, and traditions associated with the great fortified wines of the Mediterranean and Atlantic, strengthening the cultural and tourism positioning of these regions.

International

• Global sparkling wine exports reach €8.5 billion, with Prosecco the global driving force. According to a Del Ray Analysts of Wine Markets analysis, global sparkling wine exports are worth €8.51 billion as of July 2025 (up 0.4% in volume, down 0.6% in value). The average price is €7.83/liter , the highest among all wine types, although slightly declining. Italy, France, and Spain account for 85% of the value and 75% of the volume; Prosecco is the sparkling wine that has grown the most in recent years, confirming its status as an international phenomenon.
• The decline of the “American wine empire” (Napa and Sonoma) California viticulture is experiencing its most serious crisis since Prohibition: tariffs, excess inventory, changing consumer habits, and a recent, very generous harvest have saturated warehouses. Some Napa and Sonoma winemakers are even forced to uproot vineyards, raising profound questions about the business model of high-end American wine.
• Swiss wine at 2.19 francs: the race to the bottom is crushing producers. At the meeting of the Swiss Farmers’ Union, the scandal erupted over bottles of Dôle and Chasselas selling for less than 3 francs (as low as 2.19). With such low margins, someone in the supply chain is footing the bill, and it’s not large-scale retail trade: producers are denouncing an unsustainable model, squeezed between rising costs and price pressure.

Wine events, culture and tourism

• Alba: Presentation of “Vite di Langa e Roero” (December 10) At the Teatro Sociale G. Busca in Alba , on December 10th at 8:45 pm, Carlo Petrini and Paolo Tibaldi will present their book “Vite di Langa e Roero.” Free admission, an evening dedicated to rural memory and the relationship between history, wine, and community, in a region that is a symbol of Italian winemaking.
• Orte in Cantina: a food and wine trail through the historic village. “Orte in Cantina” takes place between the last Sunday in November and the first in December: an itinerary featuring wine tastings, traditional products, and tours of the historic center. The event blends sensory experience and cultural discovery, transforming the village into a small, scattered wine city.
• Christmas in the Cellar 2025 – Tuglie (Salento) In Tuglie , in the heart of the Ionian Salento area of Gallipoli, “Christmas in the Cellar 2025” kicks off at the Peparussu Winery – House of Traditions: music, food, crafts, solidarity, and popular memories until January 6th. On December 1st, the book “Da quando t’ho trovato” by Don Cosimo Schena will be presented, with a public discussion and free admission.
• AIS Piemonte: 60 Years of the Italian Sommelier Association with Conferences and Tastings. To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the AIS, the Piedmontese group is organizing four days of events—until December 1st—including conferences, tastings, and training sessions. The key message: sommeliers are not a “caste,” but a cultural bridge between wine, the region, and the consumer.

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See you tomorrow.

Daily wine & cellar briefing.

Key points

• The International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) confirms its estimate of world production in 2025 at around 232 Mhl (3% compared to 2024) but still ≈-7% below the five-year average , due to repeated climate shocks.
• Italy emerges as a positive exception: production estimated at around 47.4 Mhl (8% vs 2024), with favorable weather conditions across much of the country.
• Italian exports are still showing signs of slowing: in the first eight months of 2025, value recorded -1.9% and volume around -2.9% , with the US market in free fall (-30% in August).
• The global export wine market is contracting: volumes are falling (-3.7% in 1H 2025 vs 1H 2024) and values are slightly down (-2.3%), a sign of an “era of less but better”.
• Prices and inventories: In Italy, increased production combined with high inventories heralds the risk of margin pressure; the average bulk wine price remains around €0.78/L (2.1% year-on-year), but the market remains relatively inactive.
• Innovation: A recent academic study shows how AI, computer vision, and sensor technologies in the vineyard/wine tourism sector are becoming a competitive factor in mature wineries.
• M&A strategy & positioning: The Italian market is seeing more selective deals (premium, tech, export) and less focus on pure volume. Wineries must focus on quality, brand, and channels rather than quantity. (Multiple sources)

M&A Radar

Prices & Harvest – mini box

Production & Harvest

• Italy 2025: estimate ~47.4 Mhl (8% vs 2024); good/excellent quality.
• Risk: High inventories, stagnant consumption = potential margin compression.

Grape / bulk wine prices (Italy)

• Bulk wine: approximately €0.78/L (2.1% y/y) but the market is not very active.
• Grapes in premium areas are showing signs of holding up or growing, while generics and ingredients are showing weakness (updated agricultural sources record drops of up to -10/-20%).
• Implication: select by range, avoid indiscriminate production in overcapacity conditions.