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Wine press review for Monday January 5 -2026

Wine news, Italian wineries and wines.

Italian wineries

Tenuta San Leonardo: organic certification suspended (for now). The Trentino winery explains its decision: significant production declines (-30% annually over the last three harvests) and the “industrial” cost of organic farming, deemed no longer sustainable under current conditions. Key issues: economic as well as agronomic sustainability.

Odoardi: Release of seizure and return to full operations (with clarifications). The Calabrian company is back in the hands of its owner. In parallel, the Scavigno Agricultural Consortium has published clarifications: the release cited by the press concerns an area/land associated with consortium restrictions, urging people not to confuse “release of seizure” with “resumption of operations” in the full sense.

Alex Maccan: From Furniture to Viticulture in Friuli (Le Monde and La Ponca) A story of a life-changing entrepreneurial career: from the furniture industry to the vineyards, a journey that unites vision, territory, and winemaking.

Farewell to Arnaldo Caprai (192?–2026): the man who transformed Sagrantino into a global brand. One of the protagonists of the promotion of Sagrantino di Montefalco: entrepreneurship, territorial vision, and building an international reputation, has passed away at the age of 92.

Italian wine and Italian oenology

Italian wine inventories are growing: “Cantina Italia” reports high volumes. As of November 30, 2025: 53.4 million hectoliters (8.6% vs. November 30, 2024), 9.5 million hl of new wine in fermentation, and 9.7 million hl of must. This trend is interpreted in the context of different harvests (2023 poor, 2024 more generous, 2025 even more abundant) and slower sales/consumption (health concerns, tariffs, pressure on incomes).

Dealcoholized wines: Protopapa (Lega) calls for “regulatory clarity” to protect identities and denominations. The interministerial decree between the Ministry of Economy and Finance (MEF) and the Ministry of Health (MASAF) ushers in a more structured phase for the low/no alcohol segment. The political and operational message is: innovation is welcome, but with clear rules to avoid ambiguity regarding the positioning of Piedmontese and Italian wines.

Zibibbo (Moscato d’Alessandria): a Mediterranean grape variety, between history and identity. Cultural and agronomic insight: Zibibbo as a “bridge” between peoples, trade routes, agricultural techniques and traditions (Pantelleria as a symbol, but not only).

Grapur – “Italian Red Wine”: Sustainability told through packaging. Project 2025 by Mack & Schühle Italia (a joint venture between Mack & Schühle AG and Latentia). A broad supply chain (cooperatives and an extensive vineyard network) and a narrative/industrial approach: sustainability built from the ultra-lightweight bottle, cork, and materials (with partners such as Verallia and Nomacorc Ocean).

Tasting Notes: Primitivo di Manduria Dionysos 2010 (De Quarto) A wine “out of time” (in a good way): long maceration, no oak, released only at the ripeness deemed ideal by the producer. Very low sulfur content; broad and mature aromatic profile.

The Fiano that defies time: Fiano di Avellino Riserva 2015 (Di Meo) Focus on evolutionary capacity and taste tension: eight years in steel, refined in the bottle, with freshness still alive.

Falanghina identity: the Tenuta Le Albe project (Arturo Erbaggio) Portrait of a winemaker/agronomist who “sets up on his own” and builds an essential and territorial Falanghina (plot in Irpinia, project launch 2012).

International

France: Sweetening of still AOC wines, doctrine changes. From November 27, 2025: regulated opening to sensory profile correction in still AOC wines, with technical limitations (9 g/l limit, traceability, operational constraints). Impact for Italy: potential competitive pressure on the medium segments and, at the same time, an opportunity to reposition “Made in Italy” on transparency and the strength of the appellations.

The Academy (Vinexposium): training and data to understand global markets. Confirmation of its role as an international hub in 2025: sessions on the geopolitics of wine, consumption trends, strategies, and a focus on the blending theme as a possible industrial direction.

“Wine Flight” wine tourism experiences in the castle. Visit/tasting story: wine tourism as an experiential product (replicable format), with attention to scenography, hospitality and tasting itinerary.

Wine events

Palio del Groppello 2025: Saottini wins (2024 harvest). A historic first: debut and victory, and the first win for the Lonato del Garda area. A tradition since 1970, with the awards ceremony in Salò.

Triveneto Winemaking Hub: inauguration on January 31, 2026 (San Vito al Tagliamento). A new consortium governance hub promoted by Triveneta Certificazioni, with a conference entitled “Building Connections, Building the Future.” The goal: quality, traceability, and market competitiveness, with a networking approach between regions and control systems.

Tuglie (LE): “Nativity Scenes in the Village” and “Christmas in the Cellar” until January 6th. A calendar will be distributed among wineries and historic locations. A special presentation of the book “Generazione alternativa. 1991-1995” will be held at the Peparussu Winery (wine-related cultural event).

Agro-economic context and assets (supply chain focus)

Italian farmers’ income: growth above the EU average. Statements by the Minister of Agriculture: Masaf strategies on supply chains, generational turnover, and valorization (including through tourism and cultural recognition).

Agricultural land: “silent” value selection (data and levers). Average value in Italy: €22,400/ha (1%) with significant regional differences (the Northeast is at its highest). Drivers cited: logistics, water availability, structured supply chains, brand strength, and earnings potential. Tax note: revaluation of land (2025 Budget Law) with a substitute tax of 18% by November 30, 2025, through a certified appraisal.

Operations and market

Beverage Risk 2026: M&A Expectations in Italy. 2025 is described as a year of slower transactions compared to 2024 (more caution, longer evaluation and closing times), but with overall values still solid. Reading: a less “noisy” pipeline, but deals are possible for well-positioned assets with defensible numbers.

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Agricultural land: why some increase in value and others lose it

Regulations, supply chains, and trends that are redrawing the value map.

Something less visible than a revolution, but much more impactful, is happening in the agricultural world: a silent selection of value.

Some lands are becoming increasingly sought-after, while others remain stagnant or are declining. This isn’t by chance, nor is it simply a matter of agronomic quality. What makes the difference today are the rules, supply chains, and consumption .

2024 captures this transition well. The average value of agricultural land in Italy reached €22,400 per hectare , a 1% increase. A modest but significant increase: after years, it outpaces inflation and signals that land is once again being viewed as an economic asset , not just an inherited legacy.

But talking about “land prices” in a generic sense is misleading. The market isn’t a single thing: it’s a constellation of local micro-markets, which react very differently to the same stimuli.

An increasingly polarized geography of value

The 2024 numbers show a clear divide:

  • Northeast : €47,100/hectare, the most expensive and competitive area
  • North-West : €35,200/hectare (2.3%)
  • Center : €15,100/hectare
  • South : €13,300/hectare (1.9%)
  • Islands : €8,600–9,000/hectare

These differences aren’t the result of market sentiment. They’re the result of concrete factors: logistics, water availability, the presence of structured supply chains, leading companies, strong brands, and the real possibility of turning land into income .

Where a major brand arrives, or where a denomination becomes a driving force, the landscape changes status. Where, however, a crop loses commercial appeal or is left out of the mainstream, its value tends to decline.

The 2025 signal: the market starts moving again

Another indicator deserves close attention. In the first half of 2025, sales showed a shift in pace:

  • –2% in the first quarter
  • 3.7% in the second quarter

It’s not a boom, but it’s a sign of a return to decision . After a long wait-and-see phase, investors and operators are beginning to evaluate concrete operations again. The main reasons are two:

  • CAP 2023–2027 , which offers a more stable framework for those investing in the medium to long term
  • More readable regulations , especially on the fiscal and patrimonial level

When the rules become less opaque, capital tends to come back into play.

Why land is worth (or isn’t worth) today

The value of a piece of land doesn’t depend on its size, but on its economic function within its context . The question to ask isn’t “how beautiful is it,” but: what can it realistically become in the next ten years?

The factors that have the greatest impact today are:

  • location and logistical accessibility
  • urban planning destination and constraints
  • water availability (often decisive)
  • inclusion in certified supply chains or strong brands
  • environmental and landscape constraints
  • exposure to climate risks
  • compatibility with energy or multifunctional projects

Land increases in value when it enters a credible economic narrative . It declines when it remains outside of the flows, or when it produces something the market no longer demands.

The fiscal lever that changes strategies: 2025 Budget Law

The real break comes at the regulatory level. With the 2025 Budget Law, the ability to revalue land for tax purposes becomes a structural possibility.

Owners of land owned as of January 1, 2025, can update the market value by paying a substitute tax of 18% (it was 16% in the previous two years).

Key conditions:

  • Expiration: November 30, 2025
  • certified appraisal drawn up by a qualified professional, based on technical-economic criteria

It’s not a technical detail: aligning tax value with real value changes the way we plan sales, generational transitions, corporate transactions, and investments . Land ceases to be an “uncertain” variable in the accounts.

Owners and investors: two different effects, same direction

For landowners, reassessment is a strategic assessment: updating today can reduce future rigidities . It’s not an automatic choice, but a tool to be evaluated with capital considerations.

For buyers, the effect is equally significant: more transparency means fewer negotiating deadlocks and greater fluidity in transactions. Real estate markets function better when values are legible.

Unused lands and new projects: the potential to change the map

In the long term, the real playing field is different. Italy has over 4 million hectares of uncultivated land and approximately 14,000 hectares of public land , with an estimated value of around 180 million euros .

Over €1 billion is planned for the 2024–2028 period for recovery, innovation, and sustainability, with a focus on young entrepreneurs and new management models.

If these policies become real projects, their value will not only depend on the initial price, but on the ability to transform the territory into a business , using modern tools: water management, technology, short supply chains, economic sustainability even before environmental sustainability.

It’s not a fad: it’s a phase change

The real turning point isn’t a single fact. It’s the changing climate:

  • prices that are holding up again
  • more stable tax rules
  • more selective investors
  • lands that are valuable if they are “useful” for something

Land is no longer an indistinct commodity. It has once again become a strategic choice , rewarding those who understand supply chains, anticipate consumption, and understand where major market flows are going—and where they are leaving.

My dad always told me, remember that the earth always gives you food!

Wine press review for Sunday January 4 – 2026

Wine news, Italian wineries and wines.

Italian wineries

La Gerla, Monteraponi, and Cavallotto: the podium of the “Top 100” by Kerin O’Keefe. Three iconic denominations of Italian red wine lead the ranking:

  • Brunello di Montalcino La Pieve 2021 – La Gerla (100 points)
  • Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Radda Bragantino 2021 – Monteraponi (100 points)
  • Barolo Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2019 – Cavallotto (100 points)

Only high-altitude vineyards: Baglio di Pianetto’s strategic choice. Focusing on mountain vineyards for freshness and elegance. The winery focuses production on Santa Cristina Gela and Piana degli Albanesi, ceding its vineyards in Noto.

The new has ancient roots: Siridia is born in Negrar. Samuela and Edoardo Speri’s project combines distinctive wines and an innovative liqueur offering, with an Amaro that integrates Amarone dried grapes and select botanicals.

Ungrafted vineyards and Roman cisterns: La Sibilla in the Phlegraean Fields. The Di Meo family promotes Falanghina and Piedirosso, along with native varieties rediscovered in a unique setting with volcanic soil and history.

Chiarli 1860: One Hundred Years and a Major Renovation The historic Modena winery is investing in a new bottling line and technological systems to meet an increasingly demanding market.

Epiphany toast: “Lumia” by Carlo & Marco Carini. Late harvest Sans Année, organic, from Sémillon grapes, aged in barriques. Limited production of 1,100 numbered bottles.

Vigna Laure Greco di Tufo DOCG Riserva 2023 – Cantine Di Marzo The Irpinian white wine wins the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri award , confirming the value of the project led by Ferrante Di Somma.

Italian wine and Italian oenology

Sergio Mattarella : “Thanks to food and wine, we are appreciated around the world.” In his end-of-year speech, the President emphasized the cultural value of Italian food and wine, just days after UNESCO recognized Italian cuisine.

The return of Prünent, Nebbiolo from Val d’Ossola A historic Nebbiolo ecotype is reborn thanks to the work of the Garrone family, in one of the northernmost areas of Piedmont.

The future of Italian wine according to the Consorzio Italia del Vino. Keywords for 2026: enthusiasm, beauty, experimentation, stability, and resilience. Reflections from the leaders of 24 major groups representing 15% of exports.

Growing stocks: from major DOCs to “jewel” territories. Cantina Italia data (updated November 30, 2025) show 53.4 million hectolitres (8.6% year-on-year), with slow sales and declining consumption.

Alcohol-Dealcoholized Wines: The Decree Is Here With the interministerial decree between the Ministry of Economy and Finance (MEF) and the Ministry of Food and Agriculture (MASAF), Italy finally defines the regulatory framework for low-/no-alcohol wines, protecting historic denominations.

“Pazza Idea”: Ca’ di Frara’s alcohol-free wine. Luca Bellani’s project was born in Germany, using osmosis technology and Moselle grapes, anticipating the Italian market for dealcoholized wines.

How we will drink in 2026 According to sommelier Luisito Perazzo, indigenous will be the key word of the future, along with greater consumer awareness.

The 2025 harvest will be excellent, but 2026 looks set to be complex. Production estimated at 47.4 million hectolitres (8%), high quality but high stocks in a context of declining consumption.

International

The World’s Best Winery is Viña Vik According to The World’s 50 Best Vineyards 2025 , the Chilean project combines iconic architecture, experiential wine tourism and wines from unique microclimates.

April 2025: Italian and International Wine A key month marked by agricultural policies, surplus management, and structural reflections on the future of the sector.

Wine events

The Michelin Guide introduces the “Grappoli” Starting in 2026, a new selection will reward wineries with one, two or three Grappoli, alongside recommended vineyards.

Wine takes center stage once again: the countdown to Wine&Siena begins. Three days dedicated to the excellence selected by The WineHunter Award, with over 100 wineries and a new partnership with the Consorzio del Nobile di Montepulciano.

The Under-40s of Italian Wine: Talent, vision, and new energy, as told through the protagonists we met in 2025, ahead of Only Wine.

Strategic focus

FORBUS: When quality is no longer enough. In wine, quality is a prerequisite. The difference lies in managing complexity: markets, costs, inventory, channels, wine tourism, low/no alcohol, and true sustainability. FORBUS, a network created by QUIDQUID Srls , works with a single management team covering viticulture, cellar management, oenology, sales, and branding, all the way to operating results.

Contact : info@quidquid.eu | +39 329 9298985

Today’s wine press review is brought to you by WINEIDEA.IT . See you tomorrow.

Wine press review for Saturday January 3 – 2026

Wine news, Italian wineries and wines.

Italian wineries

The most surprising wines of 2025 A selection that rewards not only absolute excellence, but the ability to amaze: authentic interpretations, respectful of the grape variety and territory, capable of exciting and standing out in the “ideal wine list” of the year just ended.

Vigna Laure Greco di Tufo DOCG Riserva 2023 – Cantine Di Marzo. This Irpinian white wine has won Gambero Rosso’s Tre Bicchieri award. A wine with great personality, created by Ferrante Di Somma and winemaker Vincenzo Mercurio, confirms the strength of the volcanic Greco di Tufo.

Schola Sarmenti: Salento among the world’s elite wineries. A 2025 packed with accolades for the Salento winery, recognized by major international guides and competitions. A coherent winemaking project, rooted in the Apulian bush vine system, capable of combining tradition and contemporary vision.

Pellegrino Winery and Pietro Russo MW launch a strategic partnership to promote Western Sicilian wines. The arrival of Italy’s first Master of Wine strengthens the winemaking development and international positioning of one of Marsala’s historic wineries.

La Gerla, Monteraponi, and Cavallotto: the podium of the “Top 100” Three iconic appellations—Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, and Barolo—lead the ranking compiled by Kerin O’Keefe, with wines rated full points.

Ruggeri and the new Cartizze Dry Millesimato 2024. A project that unites history and future in the most prestigious cru of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, focusing on identity, continuity, and territorial value.

Cantine Pellegrino 1880 – Nero d’Avola Gazzerotta 2022 Over 140 years of history and a production that exceeds 5 million bottles annually: one of the key players in the Sicilian wine scene.

Donna Elvira: from London to Irpinia. The story of a winery born from a return to its origins, amidst family ties, volcanic soils, and a winemaking vision rooted in the territory.

Cantine Risveglio becomes a Valtur Brindisi business partner. The sports partnership has been renewed for the 2025/26 season. The historic Brindisi cooperative confirms its leading role in local viticulture and innovation, including in the classic method sparkling wine sector.

Trentino Doc Riesling 2023 – Cembra Cantina di Montagna Heroic viticulture in Val di Cembra: terraced vineyards between 450 and 900 meters, 300 members and a cooperative model that protects the landscape and Alpine identity.

Italian wine and Italian oenology

The value of wine comes from its territory. Alessandro Profumo’s vision: wine as a strategic national asset, to be enhanced through territorial marketing, community, and production quality.

10 Questions for Winemakers: From Piwi to dealcoholized wine, from vineyard uprooting to the freedom of IGTs: an open discussion on the major issues facing the present and future of Italian wine.

Alcohol-free wine: production rules approved. The decree defining the tax and excise framework has been approved. Italian companies can now compete on equal terms in the rapidly growing no-/low-alcohol segment.

Wine and longevity Aging capacity remains one of the great challenges in winemaking: useful technical judgments, but always provisional, until time gives its verdict.

Carema: an ancient wine with a contemporary face. Mountain Nebbiolo establishes itself as a model of elegance, freshness, and lightness, in tune with current tastes and resilient to climate change.

After standardization: the wine bar we’d like in 2026. In Milan, the “wine bar with a kitchen” format is growing. Quality is widespread, but so is the risk of standardization in a model that has been too successful.

Gambero’s Lessons: A Review After 25 Years. A personal story that spans the press, communications, and Italian food culture, amid profound changes and new awareness.

International

Sparkling wines will continue to grow. According to FactMr, the global sparkling wine market will reach $59 billion by 2035 (28.3%). Premium, conviviality, and expanding product offerings are driving growth, with a CAGR of 2.5%.

France: Green light for chaptalization of PDO still wines. A historic turning point for AOC wines, designed to address the sector’s crisis and capture the tastes of new generations, with precise limits on residual sugars.

The world’s best winery isn’t in Italy. Wine tourism is growing at double-digit rates and now accounts for about a quarter of wineries’ global revenue. The “World’s 50 Best Vineyards 2025” ranking rewards the overall experience, not just the wine in the glass.

Wine events

Steve McCurry – Umbria Until May 3, 2026 in Montefalco, the exhibition tells the story of Umbria through food, conviviality, and agricultural culture, intertwining photography, territorial identity, and food and wine.

Cantine d’Italia 2026 – Go Wine 911 selected wineries, 270 Impronte d’Eccellenza (Imprints of Excellence) for wine tourism, and over 5,000 wines featured. A guide that invites you to journey through the territories, stories, and landscapes of Italian wine.

Tuscany tops the Go Wine Guide. With 56 Impronte d’Eccellenza (Imprints of Excellence), the region confirms its leadership in Italian wine tourism, thanks to its quality hospitality and diverse territories.

Thanks for listening. Today’s wine press review was brought to you by WINEIDEA.IT .

See you tomorrow.